Wednesday, September 14, 2011

The "Priller´s Focke Wulf" work: Hasegawa 1/72.

Back in 72nd. This time a Fw 190 A5 flown by German ace Josef "Pips" Priller. Priller was assigned as Kommodore of JG 26 from January 1943 to January 1945. He achieved 101 victorys all of them on the Western Front. Because JG 26 was dispersed due to heavy Allied bombing just prior to D-Day, when the invasion came only Priller and his wingman where in a position to "defend" the beaches in his famous flight over the beach-head. Maybe some of you remember the scene on the film "The Longest Day" By Ken Annakin based on the book By Cornelius Ryan, both of them extremely recommended. 
I used the Hasegawa kit with some improvements in cockpit, exhaust and riveting. I used Gunze colours to paint the German camouflage RLM 70, 74, 75 and 76. The weathering was entirely done with oil paints except the stains from the exhaust nozzles where I used Mig´s pigments diluted with water.
A small bird to decorate some corner on our shelf.

Diego Quijano.


  1. Fantástico,como todos tus trabajos del blog.

  2. Thank you guys. :)
    Un saludo, AGP.


  3. Very impressive work Diego, The weathering that you have done on this plane gives the illusion that it is 1:48 or even 1:32.

    I would like to hear about your weathering techniques for planes.


  4. Hi Jase,
    Weathering with oil paints:
    With the surface protected with Klear, Future or other acrylic gloss varnish you can apply and manipulate oil colours with absolutely no danger. To get the greasy and stained look I decided to apply oil colours and smudge them without any solvent, just handbrushing with a shorthaired small brush. The method is quite simple, first I put small spots of dense black oil in the zones I want to stain and then I blended them brushing softly.
    If you want a spotty look you can apply many small spots and then blend them.
    If you want a bigger dark area for a whole panel or a filter effect you put the oil along the panel line and then blend it in the desired direction.
    If you brush too much you can remove much of the the oil paint and in any case if you don´t like the effect you can clean it with a brush and enamel solvent.
    You also can mix black oil with other colours like white, brown and ochre to get some tints over the camo but the main staining process is made with black oil.
    To enhance the panel lines I applied diluted black oil on the upper surfaces and dark brown on the underside. The varnished surface makes the oil dry slowly so you need to let the plane dry for a day before handling it again and always use latex gloves.
    The oil stains have a matt finish that gives and interesting contrast with the glossy surface. To soften this contrast a little but not entirely eliminate it I softly airbrushed with a mix of satin-matt laquer.


  5. Beautiful work and in a small scale too! May I ask how you do your antennas?

  6. Hi Bill,
    The antenna wire is made from very thin stretched sprue cut to the right length; you can easily glue it with styrene cement.
    The small bumps are made with small drops of black cyanoacrylate dried with CA accelerator so they keep the shape. The transparent CA may also work but is better if it is a little dense. Other option for the bumps may be the acrylic resin.

    Thanks for your words, fellow.


  7. Very nice model you made here Diego.
    Also a good explanation about the oil wheathering

  8. Es precioso.
    Una obra para inspirarse.

  9. Hi Diego, fantastic model. I must say that is one of the most convincing paint on a model I've seen. Its the right amount of glossyness. How did you achieve this sheen?

    Many thanks,

    1. Thank you mate. I paint the model with glossy paints. After aplying the weathering effects, which are mostly matt, I apply several very thin layers of satin varnish untill I get just the shine I want. Thats the better method I know.